ROUGE A/W 2021
Iris Van Herpen: A Contemporary Couturier
In a world of referencing and replication, it becomes difficult to identify anyone as truly original. When it comes to fashion, an industry that has been around for decades, originality in designs are rare; however, Iris Van Herpen takes inspiration from the worlds of science and technology, creating truly original designs and opening a new door in the world of fashion. The Dutch designer started her brand in 2007, and started showing in Paris in 2011, focusing on creating techniques that reach beyond what couturiers have ever dreamed of. Whether it is 3D printed gowns or hand sewn pieces that look like they came out of the ocean, Van Herpen’s work seems to be almost in a state of hypnosis, as though she is trying to escape the boundaries of fashion that have been set forth before her. Innovation is not only the cornerstone of her brand, but the DNA of it, as she expands past the boundaries of fashion and brings in the worlds of science and technology in every one of her collections, as she has “always been at the vanguard of fashion and technology, while maintaining her focus on the beauty of the human body and its movement” (Borrelli-Persson, 2020).
In her Spring 2021 couture show, Van Herpen focused on sustainability, and came together with Parley from Oceans Ocean Plastic to create gowns made from debris found in the ocean, all while keeping the quality of her pieces beyond the standard, and pushing the boundaries of couture for the better (Borrelli-Persson, 2021). Van Herpen has a unique ability to release her creativity in a way many designers of our time would not even dream of, reminding viewers of the harmony that exists between fashion, technology, and science. Her willingness to experiment has resulted in critical acclaim from those within the fashion industry, and has created an open conversation of what it truly means to explore freedom in the industry. In a world that is changing rapidly, many designers are staying stagnant in their ways, making the industry seem bland and not in line with the current zeitgeist, but Van Herpen fluidity in her designs and exploration with surrealism has set a new standard for designers around the world. Her pieces are works of art, but still ones that can be worn, and they are frequently seen on the red carpet.
Van Herpen’s references feel new and fresh, such as Crystallization in 2010, Escapism in 2011, or even Hacking Infinity in 2015. In her 2011 escapism collection, she collaborated with architect Daniel Widrig to showcase a collection full of 3D printed lace, plissé textures, and organic silhouettes. It's unique that her designs reference anything except fashion, which truly sets her apart making her designs feel truly original. Van Herpen’s innovation has only grown throughout the years, as in 2019 she had meticulously laser cut her dresses thousands of times, creating movement that could not be achieved with any average textile. Iris Van Herpen is a designer that will be remembered as one of the most innovative figures in fashion of our time, going on to inspire millions not only because of her clothes, but because of her conscious efforts to push boundaries and expand the true meaning of fashion.
Sources:
Herpen, I. van. (2020, May 19). Iris van Herpen imagines a fashion future in which clothes are only made on demand. Vogue. Retrieved November 18, 2021
Borrelli-Persson, L. (2021, January 25). Iris van Herpen spring 2021 couture collection. Vogue. Retrieved November 18, 2021
